Editorial Review

Smith & Wollensky flesh hawker Alan Stillman keeps it all in the family. Son Michael taps downtown design firm AvroKO for nouveau-old school, butcher-boy feel. Reinvention of the Manhattan Ocean Club—complete with a nightlife scene made up of blowfish, sharks, and clinging algae—as a movable feast of aged flankdom. T-bones, chops, aged bone-in sirloin all deliver. NB: Quality don't come cheap.